Sunny Explorations

The title of today's post reflects what happened yesterday (Monday). Because today, it is not sunny at all.  It's actually very foggy - I could see the sea when I got up...but then I couldn't!  This is my 3rd time at this coffee shop, Haute Cup, and my first time taking a direct route here and not getting lost.  Now that I realize how close it really is to my apartment, I like it even more!  Too bad it's my last morning here.

Anyway, about yesterday.  It was a gloriously sunny day, and it really made the town come alive a lot more.  I followed the little route I had worked out, and decided that this is a fascinating city after all, and that it's ok if it feel run down because it is thousands of years old. :-)  My first stop was at some ancient ruins of the original city of Tomis.  It blew me away that these were just in the middle of a city block, not protected in any way, not really labeled or anything, just sort of...there.  Anyway, they were cool.

one of many cool views from the top of the minaret

Then I kept heading south (so nice to have the sea on my left so I didn't get lost).  I decided to take a tour of a famous little mosque which was listed in my tour book.  It cost 5 lei to get in, and when I didn't have exact change handy and was digging in my bag, another tourist paid for me. So nice!  He and his small group of friends/family were the only other ones there while I was there, so I kind of tagged along with them.  The coolest part was that we got to climb to the top of the minaret and get an amazing view of the city. (I ended up seeing this group of people again randomly when I walked past the restaurant they were eating at.  I think we probably represented about 50% of the tourists exploring Constanta on this particular day. :-)




I kept up on my journey south, and came to the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, the largest Orthodox church in this city.  I couldn't figure out if I was supposed to pay something to get in,  and when I cracked the door open, there were some nuns busy with something, so I stayed outside.  There was some beautiful artwork in front, and some more ruins of the old city out in the yard, a little better protected than the ones I'd seen earlier.  There was also an interesting sign about early Christian martyrs killed here between the 2nd and 4th centuries. 

"The Ancient of Days"... I think

ruins in the churchyard, with the sea behind

with the casino in the background, and 2 American girls

 From there, I walked along the sidewalk by the sea for awhile, taking lots of pictures.  There's an old, out-of-use casino that is said to have been glorious in its day and is still one of the must-see sights in this city, so I did as expected and took some pictures there.  There were a couple American girls taking pictures too - I almost asked if I could be their friend :-)  It's crazy how few Americans I've seen on this whole trip.  I walked the touristy harbor area, where maybe 1/3 of the restaurants were open, but I couldn't be confident that I would find good food there that wasn't seafood, so I kept walking til I got closer to my apartment.  I went to a restaurant that I'd noticed before, that overlooks the ocean (instead of just the harbor), and it was beautiful.  I was tired and warm from all the walking, and I enjoyed pizza (without any seafood in it!) and a frozen lemonade, with my sweater off, in the sunshine!  It gave me a little glimpse of how amazing this place must be in warmer weather!

I never get tired of taking panoramic pictures

Lunch.  With maybe the prettiest non-alcoholic
drink I've ever had

I then finally walked down to the beach itself.  I had hoped to get my toes wet, but I just couldn't do it.  It was windy and cold, and the walk back to my apartment wouldn't be too fun with sandy, wet feet.  So instead of my usual toes-in-the-water pic, I got a fingers-in-the-water picture instead :-)

so many shells!

touching the Black Sea!

My afternoon and evening were pretty low-key.  I was a little anxious because my internet still wasn't working, and I couldn't get a needed message from my host about today's check-out, and I don't know where to catch my taxi today to the train station, and I was almost out of my Romanian cash.  In other cities, there have been exchange places everywhere I look, but I hadn't seen a single one here, and I had a moment of panic wondering what to do if I ran out of cash.Thankfully, even without internet, I found an exchange place on a map using GPS, hoped it was legit, and walked in that direction.  I was so relieved to find it!

I wasn't really hungry after my big lunch, so went home for the evening after that.  Thankfully, my dad was able to check my email from home and text me some needed info, and I'm starting to get used to not having internet at the apartment...but was really excited to re-connect with the world here at the coffee shop this morning! Today, I head to Bucharest and would appreciate prayers as I navigate a hectic city.  I won't be able to just walk everywhere once I get there so will actually have to figure out how the subway works, and taxis are known for being corrupt there too.  I'm hoping to connect with a friend once I get there though.  It's supposed to be rainy pretty much the whole time I'm there, so I'm already looking up "indoor activities in Bucharest" without much luck :)

I feel as if this post may be a bit on the long side, probably because I was going through communication withdrawals these past 24 hours :-)  Thanks for reading!

A Day of Rest...sort of

Today, I've returned to a coffee shop called Haute Cup, that I came to yesterday.  I considered trying someplace else, but this place has many wonderful things, including brightly colored décor, iced coffee, kind and handsome baristas :), and the thing that shocks me most: they bring a cup of water to my table along with my coffee.  This is huge!  Water is pretty much never free here and is actually pretty expensive (relatively speaking), and is never brought without asking.  I am amazed my body is still  functioning with how little water I've had on this trip...but this place helps me!

I'm liking Constanta, mostly.  It's weird because it's a huge vacation destination for people (in the summertime though) but there are many parts that are totally run down.  The Black Sea is fantastically beautiful, but the town itself, at least the parts I've seen so far, hasn't wowed me nearly as much as the others I've been to.  I've also realized that I'm currently further away from home than I've ever been in my life!  A strange thing to think about.  But anyway, here's what I've been up to:

beginnings of the sunrise from my window

Yesterday morning was wonderful.  I got up early and watched the sun rise over the sea, then headed out for the morning.  The weather was much improved from the night before, and I came to Haute Cup and fell in love with it, then journeyed on to a nearby church. 


sunrise, continued



Definitely coffee time!



Haute Cup

 I'd found this church randomly online - I just looked up the most walkable Baptist church - but truly, the Lord was so kind in leading me there.  Funny thing is, most churches start with singing, and I've been told that when I sing in Romanian I sound Romanian, so I get this sweet experience of almost blending in for a little while. :)  The service was 2.5 hours long - which is normal here - and really great.  I'm so impacted by the way that people pray in Romanian churches.  It is a huge part of the service, and instead of just 1 person praying from up front, people are invited to pray aloud from the congregation.  At one point in yesterday's service, the pastor said that we were going to split into smaller groups to pray for some of the health needs in the church.  I had to blow my cover and tell the ladies in my group that I am not Romanian...but it was sweet because we had a conversation about it, entirely in Romanian, in which one of the ladies said, "It's ok, you can pray in English.  God understands."  It was sweet to pray with them.  Another highlight of the service was singing "Before the Throne" in Romanian, which is probably my overall favorite worship song in English.  I had prayed before the service that I would truly be able to worship there, and God totally answered that prayer.  I had another conversation with the lady next to me on my way out, still in Romanian, and was so glad to have been able to worship alongside those sweet people and not have them need to cater to my English.



Bulevardul Tomis, kind of a restaurant row

After church, I changed and went to find lunch.  I got a shawarma plate at a fast food place, then tried to do a little bit of sightseeing.  It started to get cold again though, and windy, so I did sort of a speedy version.  It's a super old city - the oldest continuously inhabited city in Romania, said to have been founded in 600 BC as the city of Tomis.  So lots of fascinating things to see...but I was cold and went back to my apartment after taking some pictures.  I journeyed out again for dinner at a traditional Romanian place I'd noticed earlier, and got what is now my favorite soup here, which I was introduced to in Cluj - bean and smoked meat (what kind of meat?  No idea!  Who am I??).  I then stopped at a little market and bought water, Fanta, and some candy, and headed back to relax some more at home with these refreshments in hand.  I live-streamed my home church service, watched tv a bit (lots of coverage about Obama's trip to Cuba!) and read some.  The internet stopped working, which made me feel pretty isolated,  but it was otherwise a good night.


Ancient grave marker from the 3rd century



pretty shot of Piata Ovidiu, the square that had seemed spooky
the night before :)

Ok, so it's still a little spooky.  This is a stray dog staring at me
from the 2nd floor of an abandoned building

one of many pics I took of the sea

 

love the colors in this one

there's a sea behind me, but you can't really tell

fun traditional décor at my dinner place, complete with
a well-dressed mannequin.

Today is supposed to be warmer (56 degrees!) and totally sunny.  I have a little exploration route worked out that I am pretty excited about.  According to the weather app, it should be at its warmest at 3:30 this afternoon, so I brought some flip flops along in my backpack and am really hoping to dip my toes in the sea at about that time :-)  Time will tell!

Brasov to (Bucharest to) Constanta

Currently, it's a bitterly cold night outside.  I'm enjoying a lollipop and watching The Incredibles on tv, in Romanian.  Pretty glamorous, right?

my cozy room in Brasov

It's been a surprisingly good day.  I was dreading it a bit - leaving Brasov when I love it so, and having to take 2 taxis and 2 trains all in one day.  But everything went so smoothly!  I stopped at a fun little streetside bakery that I'd gotten lunch from yesterday, and picked up breakfast before even catching my cab.  I knew not only where to catch the cab but how to check for a legitimate one this time, and by God's grace there was an honest cab driver waiting right where I wanted him to be.  I got to the station in plenty of time, and the first train ride (from Brasov to Bucharest) was completely beautiful.  I even had my little area to myself for awhile on the train, so I felt free to take pictures without being embarrassed.

through-the-train-window pics never quite
capture the beauty. 

no other passengers in my little pod yet :)

I was nervous about Bucharest - it's a really big city and less safe than other Romanian cities, and I wasn't super excited about spending 2 hours in the train station.  But this, too, went well.  A coffee shop greeted me immediately upon my arrival, and I was able to read there until it was time to catch the next train.  This also went well.  The train was more crowded, but the 3 other ladies in my area were sweet.  They spoke Romanian to each other, and I just smiled and listened, and it was fun to hear this sweet little old Romanian lady complaining about kids these days and their tablets that they play with all day long.  Not just a problem in the US, I suppose :-) We crossed what I thought was the Danube, and I took pictures, and then we crossed the actual Danube, and I took some more pictures.  Also, it snowed during both of my train rides!  I've never been in Romania while it's snowing, so that was another fun first.

what I thought was the Danube

the actual Danube

entering Constanta county

My arrival in Constanta was the first arrival in a new city in which I didn't have to stop and regroup before leaving the train/bus station.  I followed the crowds to the taxi stand, got another taxi, and my Airbnb host was waiting for me at the curb when I arrived!  I was inside the apartment less than 15 minutes after getting off the train!

spooky empty square

After my host left, I tried to go find dinner.  Let me tell you, this city had me a little spooked.  I walked toward what is supposed to be one of the main squares, and I'm telling you, it could have been a scene from some sort of apocalyptic movie.  There are these big, old buildings, that are mostly really grey, and the square was empty apart from maybe 5 other people, and it was snowing (which was probably part of why nobody was out and about).  I turned around, and on my way back to the apartment I found some live people and some cute restaurants, but by that time I decided I didn't have time for a sit-down dinner before dark, and I was a little nervous to be out after dark here, at least while everything seemed so empty.  So I stuck my tongue out, caught a couple snowflakes for good measure, and came back to the apartment.  Which leads us to where I am now.  I ate some crackers for dinner, and am having a lollipop for dessert (earned from yesterday's tour guide for answering some Romanian trivia questions), and now The Incredibles is ending so we'll see what else my evening holds :)

This apartment is amazing - every window faces the sea, and I have two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a kitchen, and a living room.  I'm here for 3 nights, which is the longest I've stayed anywhere since Draganesti at the beginning of my trip.  I have plenty of things I'd like to see, but I also may spend some time just sitting in a comfy arm chair and gazing at the Black Sea while I read a good book or something (especially if the weather stays this way!).  It will be good to rest before Bucharest!

the view from my living room window!

That's all for tonight!

Beautiful Brasov

Today was quite lovely.  I didn't have to ride a train or take a bus, the weather was just about perfect, and I had the whole day just to explore.  Turns out I took over 100 pictures, so I'll have to be quite selective in what I share here :)

I started my day in a coffee shop.  In reading reviews ahead of  time, one of the "minuses" listed for this shop was that you had to order at the bar.  But this was a plus for me as it felt so much more natural, and I had a sweet time praying and reading from Hebrews 13 and reflecting while I drank a delicious beverage. 

pretty little canal and old city wall

Next, I just went wandering to find interesting things.  Since I'd be going on a tour in the afternoon, I tried to find things that wouldn't be featured on the tour.  My apartment is so well-situated (and only up one flight of stairs instead of many!) that I could easily come and go from it throughout the day to use the restroom, grab a snack, etc.   I spent a long time exploring some of the old walls of the city, which were fascinating and bordered by beautiful landscapes, and I checked out some other sights too.  After lunch (which was a delicious meat-and-cheese-filled pretzel thing), I went to Biserica Neagra (Black Church).  I knew it would be featured in my afternoon tour but noticed that it would be closed to the public by that time, so I paid a few lei to go inside.  I am so glad I did!  It was gorgeous, and I learned so much.  It was originally a Catholic church but became a Lutheran church after the reformation.  A man named Johannes Honterus met Martin Luther, and came back and convinced the Brasov city council to adopt reformation theology.  He was also hugely influential in developing the city in other ways.  Anyway, I loved every second I spent in that beautiful space, and because pictures inside were forbidden, you should probably look it up online. :-)


old wall and tower in the foreground, Black
Church in the background



there was a very appealing staircase leading up
to this sign that said access is strictly forbidden...

...so I took a picture there and didn't go TOO much further.

the beautiful hillside outside the walls
 

This street led directly from all those amazing sights...
to the street where I'm staying!



a memorial to those gunned down in December '89,
with their gravestones behind

my ticket into the church, with one picture that gives you a glimpse
of it's beauty...and the website to see more :)

After Biserica Neagra, I tried out the local history museum.  This was...a bit odd.  I paid my fee and was taken back outside to a little door that led down to a basement where the archaeology exhibit was located.  The museum worker quietly waited while I, apparently the only guest at the moment, explored this exhibit.  There were tons of things to see, but some weren't labeled at all, others only in Romanian, and others in English.  Very sporadic.  When I was finished down there, the museum lady led me back to the main level, where I followed some little signs to navigate the rest of the museum, which apparently had several levels. There was  actually too much to take in, and the directional signs were a little confusing, and the labeling of the exhibits was still sporadic, and the museum kind of kept going and didn't make a lot of sense.  I started to wonder how I would ever get out, and suddenly the same lady from the beginning appeared out of nowhere and directed me to the exit.  I'm glad I went, but it was kind of a strange place.
 

I think my favorite part of the history museum was the view from
its surprise 2nd-floor exit

 Then, my guided tour!  This was so cool, through a company called Walkabout Tours.  The tours are free, tips and donations only, and led by locals.  Online we were told to look for the orange umbrella in the main square, and it was funny to watch as the orange umbrella appeared and all of us foreign tourists in the square suddenly gravitated to one spot.  Our guide was Simona, and there were about 10 of us on the tour.  There was one other American girl traveling alone (I'm not the only one!!), some guys from Chile, a man from Scotland, a couple from Ireland, and some others that I think were from the UK.  Simona was wonderful, and the tour was so much fun.  We ended at a great overview of the city, and it was such a satisfying end to a satisfying day.  I wandered over to a pizza place after that, ordered a pizza with chicken, French fries, and garlic on it (which I thought was appropriate because French fries are cooked into lots of things here and our tour guide had reminded us of the importance of garlic in Dracula's land :-)), and a cocktail with rose syrup in it, which also felt somewhat regional to me. 



our group gathering for the tour.  Simona is in the pink jacket.

Orthodox church in the old Romanian sector of the city
(much of the city was German-dominated for many years)

Tomorrow, I head to the sea! I will truly miss this beautiful city but am excited for the next chapter in my adventure!

view from the end of our tour

Cluj to Brasov

Tonight, I am in the heart of the old city of Brasov.  After a very filling dinner and a long day of travel, I am so ready to sleep!  But first, a quick blog...

with Iulia and Ana at Roata

Last night, I was able to go out to dinner with my Airbnb host, Ana, and her friend Iulia.  I had so much fun!  They took me to a traditional restaurant, Roata, where we ate traditional food, drank a traditional drink (and some wine), listened to traditional music, and appreciated traditional décor.  Ana has dreams of traveling the world one day, but for now she tries her best to engage her guests when they're in town.  She says it's the next best thing because she brings other cultures right to her door!  We had some great conversations, and they wouldn't even let me pay for my dinner!  I'm so glad that I love Romanian food now - this was not exactly the case during my earlier trips :) - and it was such a joy to spend the night out with people around my age.

waiting for the train in Cluj

Today, there is not much to tell.  I walked to the train station (I'm kind of afraid of taxis, so I ignored Ana and Iulia's advice to take one), and was then on a train for the next 7 hours! It was different than the trains I've taken so far on this trip but was like one that I rode in 2007.  Instead of a central aisle with seats on either side, there were compartments containing several seats.  Really, it just reminded me of the Hogwart's express. :)  I felt pretty isolated on the ride - my little pod contained 4 other passengers, who all got along very well and were talking and laughing throughout the trip.  I wish I wasn't so shy - I could very easily have said, in Romanian, that I only speak a little bit of Romanian and could have at least engaged them a little bit.  Instead, I just sat silently for the ENTIRE TRIP, aside from a couple comments in English with one of them.  Ugh.  I was so glad to get off that train, and thankful that the older man from my compartment actually followed me to the train door to help me with my luggage - that was such a kind gesture!




the one picture I wasn't embarrassed to take from the train, while
 all the other passengers from my compartment were out walking around

Once I got to Brasov, I was fought over at the taxi stand, and a man was following me telling me that the driver who was loading my stuff into his taxi was crazy and was charging me too much.  In that moment though, I didn't know who was telling the truth, and I didn't really want to argue with the guy who had my things, so I just decided to pay the 5 dollars (which is a lot here but still so reasonable in the grand scheme of things) and pray that I would at least be safe.  I was glad that my Airbnb host's dad was waiting at the curb for me when I got here, so at least it looked like I knew someone.  I was so relieved to get inside!

Since breakfast and lunch had both been from a train station vending machine, I was eager to find a good dinner.  I ended up getting brave and going to a sit-down restaurant by myself (I don't even like to do that in the states!) and it was delicious.  My apartment here is right in the heart of the old city, with narrow cobblestone streets and beautiful old buildings...and coffee shops!  I already have one picked out for the morning and am excited to start my day that way tomorrow for the first time on the whole trip! I'm also excited because, if the internet tells the truth, I will be able to take a guided tour in the morning also, leaving from close to where I'm staying.  It feels good to have a plan!

I took so few pictures today, it's pathetic.  I wanted to take more in my train car but was already feeling like an obvious American and was too embarrassed.  So today's picture selection is a bit sparse!

Ok, it's about bedtime for me - looking forward to an early start tomorrow!

Timisoara to Criscior to Cluj-Napoca

Right now, I am sprawled out in a bed, in a loft, in an apartment overlooking the city of Cluj.

Today's view.  I love Airbnb!

But let's catch up on the last several days:

On Monday, I decided not to take any chances on city busses, and made the trek to the bus station on foot.  It was long but mostly pleasant, and allowed me to experience Timisoara just a little bit more before heading out of town.

Next on the journey was a trip to Casa Emanuel, the children's home where I visited in 2005, 2006, and 2007.  I was super excited on the bus ride there - I felt very comfortable on the bus, enjoyed just being a passenger and being able to see beautiful things while resting my feet, and loved listening to Romanian radio with occasional songs from home.  I was also glad that I would be able to recognize my stop because I've been there before, unlike any of the train stations where I'd had to get off before.  (Train and bus stops are not announced here, you just have to pay really close attention and hope you see a clear sign). 

Little did I know that I was the only passenger on my bus getting off in the village of Criscior, and that the driver was waiting for me to tell him where to stop.  I realized this too late,  and was 90% sure we'd passed where I wanted to be, so I awkwardly asked the driver to let me off.  So I got off the bus on the main road in a tiny town in the middle of Romania, with no wi-fi and no phone number of anyone in that town.  It was a little terrifying.  While I texted with a friend back home to try to help me, I started walking in what I hoped was the right direction, and then confirmed with some neighbors along the way.  I was quite a spectacle, rolling my suitcase past quiet little homes in this peaceful little town.  I was SO excited when I saw a tiny little museum that I recognized, and started walking a little more confidently.  What a relief when I saw the building and the giant tree in the courtyard of Casa Emanuel!  I was immediately welcomed, was fed a tremendous amount of delicious home-cooked food, and started playing Uno with the kids, who were surprised I knew my colors in Romanian!

Hanging out with some of the older "kids." 

My time at the orphanage was a basket full of emotions.  It was a thrill to be back there, but awkward to just sort of show up in the middle of their normal lives.  I was shocked when one of the kids, Delia, who'd been really little when I came before and is now a teenager, immediately pulled out a picture of me with the kids that she's had all these years, and started to sing a song I'd sung in front of their church in 2007 and asked me to sing it again because she remembered.  She remembered!  I couldn't believe it!

with Delia - all grown up!

This picture sort of captures a moment of my total exasperation
with rowdy boys and a bossy teenager :)

Yesterday was mostly just spent hanging out at the house.  The smaller kids, who were all "new" to me, were all home sick from school, but still eager to play and sing and spend time with me.  I spent hours with them, then actually played soccer (yes, me!) with one of the kids, then went for a walk in the late afternoon with Delia.  It's so interesting to know her as a teenager now - we had some definite power struggles even in the very short time I was there.  I'm glad to know how to pray for those kids, and it was so sweet to see so many on the staff there that were there in each of my visits before - what faithful service!  It was also both a blessing and a challenge that nobody there was fluent in English - with several of them, our knowledge of each other's languages was  about equal. I was able to really practice speaking Romanian, and was glad at what I was able to communicate, though there were  still plenty of times I  started blankly at people :-)

A panoramic view of Criscior, taken during my walk w/Delia

I think these boots were happy to walk on grassy
hills instead of hard city pavement for a change

This morning, I felt exceedingly well-cared for.  One of the workers and two of the kids met me downstairs at 6:30 and walked me to the bus stop, where they waited with me for the bus.  They packed me some sandwiches for the ride, too, which was such a blessing! The bus ride was amazingly beautiful, again, and my arrival in the city of Cluj was far more successful than my arrival in Criscior.  Cluj is a beautiful city, and super busy! There are so many people everywhere and so much going on.  I can't get over how many old, historic buildings are just part of the landscape in these cities. 

my early morning escorts to the bus stop

My biggest accomplishment today is that, unlike in Timisoara, I actually found the coffee shop I'd read about, and it was even better than I'd imagined.  I felt very much like Krista, reading a book while drinking an iced latte.  Then I wandered the city and took loads of pictures, then came back to my Airbnb, where I have a hammock and a loft and a spectacular view of the city. 

Tonight, I get to act like a true European and eat a late dinner out on the town.  My Airbnb host, Ana, asked if I'd like to do dinner/drinks, and I was happy to take her up on the offer!  It's nice to have a built-in friend in this city and to therefore be able to go out after dark and not be nervous!  I don't think I'll sleep very long tonight, since I have to catch a train in the morning, but at least I have a 7-hour train ride ahead of me tomorrow- I should be able to sleep then.

Ok, sorry so long, I tried to be as concise as I could be after two nights of not blogging!  Tomorrow, Brasov!